So you’re going to Maui and heard that you just HAVE to see the sunrise at Haleakalā because everyone raves about it and did you even go to Maui if you didn’t (or the Road to Hana? 🙄) I mean, it does translate to “House of the Sun” and TBH, it’s pretty spectacular, but it’s also grueling, especially if you’re not a morning person like me. But maybe we just tell ourselves/each other that we enjoyed it more (whether subconscious or forced) because it’s like a payoff for our efforts?
I’m the minority here but I prefer the sunset. I’ll list the pros and cons of both so you can decide since it’s subjective. Both are beautiful and unless you love driving for hours up and down mountains or plan to do the full Sliding Sands hike, you probably will only have time to see one at Haleakalā summit on your vacay.
Or bypass my babble and just jump to logistics.
Sunrise
Pros
- So you can say you did it
- The stars are out of this world. We saw a ton of shooting stars (also because we were standing in the dark with no cell reception and nothing to do) 💫
- The sunrise over the crater is awe-inspiring and has the element of the surprise. Once the light starts to come through, the crater takes shape and it’s so dramatic, it looks like a different planet
Cons
- You have to get there early and just stand around. If you don’t go with a tour, you’ll need to get a permit in advance
- It’s really cold at that elevation and you won’t need cold-weather clothes any other time in Maui
- You’ll be pretty tired the rest of the day for those continuing onto combo tours or self-driving upcountry
Sunset
Pros
- A lot less people. Like a LOT less.
- The colors are unreal. Although the sun sets on the opposites side of the crater, the colors remaining on the crater side resembles a watercolor painting
- No permit needed
- You can sleep in, do things during the day in upcountry, then head up
- It’s warmer, but still can get a little chilly
Cons
- Time difference with the US could make it difficult to stay up since you wouldn’t get back to your hotel until after 8pm
- For stargazers, you’d have to stay even later
Visibility/weather
It’s more of a which would you rather risk scenario. On my first sunrise attempt in 2003, we went through all the motions, hoping it would clear up, just to sit in the van because it was sub-zero outside, and saw nothing. Weather at that elevation is unpredictable and can change in an instant. It could also affect sunsets as it can get windy with high clouds in the evenings.
Some tools to help you plan:
Logistics
Tour vs Self-Drive
Tour pros
- Napping and looking at things/your phone while someone else drives
- The guides are great photographers. Oh, and they also have some educational things to say, and if you’re lucky, they tell funny stories
- They provide jackets, hats, gloves (you’ll still want to bring extra layers, warm socks)
- Combo tour add-on options for other activities like biking and zipline
- The sunrise permit is included
- The guides will direct you to the best viewing spots
My latest tour itinerary (Skyline Tours sunrise)
2am hotel pickup (Fairmont Kea Lani) to Skyline offices for a continental midnight snack and to get suited up, first bus at the top of the mountain at 4:30am for a prime viewing spot. Darkness and boredom (no WiFi) until breathtakingly beautiful sunrise at 6am, left the parking lot a little after 7am completely frozen, gangrene toes/fingers. Quick photo stop, then breakfast in upcountry, back at the hotel at noon-ish.
Tour Operators
There are only four tour operators that were given permits to operate inside Haleakalā when the National Parks Services started to limit visitors in 2018: Haleakalā EcoTours, Polynesian Adventures, Skyline EcoTours, and Valley Isle Excursions. Cost: approx $140-$190 p/p, combo tours additional
Self-Drive Pros
- Flexibility with your schedule
- Doing things in the area not offered on tours like hikes and specific upcountry stops (see my post for a detailed Upcountry Maui itinerary here)
- Cost savings
My latest self-drive itinerary (sunset)
Slept in, explored upcountry (I highly recommend it – separate post on that later), arrived at the summit around 4pm, hiked the beginning of Sliding Sands, hiked up to the top of the rock near the visitor’s center to view the sunset. Departed around 7pm while it was still dusk so had a bit of light driving down. Late dinner on the way back in Lahaina, didn’t get back to the Ritz-Carlton Kapalua until after 9pm.
Self-drive considerations
- Cost: $25 per vehicle to enter the park (valid for 3 days). Pay at the entrance booth upon arrival
- A permit is required for sunrise only 3am-7am. Purchase online only at recreation.gov up to 60 days prior. They do sell out quickly. A limited number of last-minute permits are released 2 days prior. Cost: $1 per vehicle
- There are no gas stations once you start making your way up
- Do you prefer to drive in the dark uphill or downhill? There are no lights and there are a lot of switchbacks
- For sunrise, you’ll be directed by Park Rangers as to where to park. Arrive at least 30-45 minutes before sunrise (or earlier if you’re insane) for a good viewing spot at the (the nook by the railing next to the Visitor’s Center or if you’re up to hiking up the rock in the dark). For sunset, I recommend parking at the summit visitor’s center next to Sliding Sands trailhead, then take the short hike up the rock so you get views of both the sunset and crater.
General Tips
Now that you’ve decided which is the best for you:
- Time adjustment. If you do sunrise, might be better to go in the beginning of your trip before your body gets acclimated to the time and vice versa
- Bring extra layers, warm socks, glove warmer packets, hat, sunglasses
- Bring snacks and water, there’s no place to buy anything up there
- The air is dry so keep lotion and chapstick handy
- Bring a flashlight
- Take cheesy pictures so you can post on social media and tell everyone how amazing it is and how they HAVE to do it
