Tham Lod Cave – Wonderment in Northern Thailand

There’s something about the darkness and the unknown of caves that just does it for me – Tham Lod did it and some. People think it’s bizarre how much I love caves and I’m not sure I can properly explain it either. I don’t like scary movies or Knott’s Scary Farm and caves are a little scary but in a such different thrilling way that fulfills my curiosity. I’m just always in awe at the result of millions of years of nature working in the dark – massive stalactites/stalagmites formed by tiny droplets of water – all of which are unique and ever-changing.

There are 3 caves at Tham Lod: Cave 1 – Big Column Cave, Cave 2 – Doll Cave, and Cave 3 – Coffin Cave. Each cave is so different. Cave 1 is accessible via a foot path and is giant in scope. It’s kind of what you envision a cave to be, but exponentially larger than whatever you’re imagining. Cave 2 is comparably narrower and shorter but is a longer cave system that is only reachable via a very long flight of zig-zagged wooden spiderweb filled stairs. There’s a river that runs through the main entrance to the opposite side opening where Cave 3 is located. It’s called Coffin Cave because it’s where the indigenous mountain tribes in Northern Thailand would keep their dead – in the furthest reaches of the cave system.

The ride on the bamboo raft is an experience in itself. There are monster fish swimming alongside the raft and it’s pitch black except for the rower’s lantern until you reach the other side. I appreciate that there are no lights inside anywhere. Not only does it keep the surprises coming, but I’m really turned off by the caves that are lit up, especially with colored lights and paved walkways like the ones in China that are so kitschy. For your safety at Tham Lod, there is a route that you must follow and a guide is mandatory. The guides are provided by the park and they carry a powerful lantern so you’re hands-free and you don’t need to bring your own flashlight.

Recommend for: Those who enjoy a sense of adventure, exploring the unknown, and intrigued by the mysterious side of nature.

Not recommended for: those who are afraid of creepy crawlies/the dark/bats/giant fish with mustaches, those with mobility issues climbing steep sets of stairs.

Cost: 450 baht for 1-3 people to visit all 3 caves, bamboo raft, and a park provided guide. That’s approx. $15 ($5 p/p if you bring 2 friends). Outrageous. So please tip your guides because these people obviously aren’t making much and a few dollars is not much to us but is a lot for them. You could just do Cave 1 for 150 baht or 1 and 2 for 200 baht but I highly recommend splurging and doing all 3. Treat yo’self. 

Tips: wear rubber gloves (not even kidding) or bring hand sanitizer because there’s a ton of bat poo on the railings leading up to Cave 3 – like the handrails are COVERED in poo. Wear comfortable shoes – you don’t need trainers, sandals are fine but ones with a back strap are helpful. The guides are in slippers, but they also do this multiple times a day and know the terrain. Pick up a bag of fish food to watch the swarm of giant fish feeding.

Getting there: a 4-hour windy mountain road drive from Chiang Mai or quick flight into Pai from the main domestic hubs in Thailand + 1 hr drive. Those who get car sick, do the flight or be prepared with Dramamine and Sprite. Or schlep it one-way, and fly the other. There’s a charming bakery/restaurant/farm on the way called Pankled Coffee that’s almost worth the drive itself. Stay in Pai for 2-3 nights and make it a little getaway. 

I realize I didn’t do a great job selling it so click here for video of my cave experience and you can hear my excitement – found in my highlight real Instagram stories under “N. Thailand”, tap to fast forward about halfway through.